Flathead Engine Rebuild. This web page is about restoring/resto- rodding a 1. Ford F- 1 pickup, and is. I am providing this in the. Ford truck owners, but beware that there are. I have only shown one way. To go back to the. The engine was run many hours on a test stand; the first test drive was April 2. Our Plan. As noted on the main page for the Resto- Rod, while the truck remains more- or- less original, the engine is getting significant upgrades. More compression. For this, you need to enlarge the existing hole (. EHow Auto gets you on the fast track with repair, maintenance, and shopping advice. Whether you're jump starting a battery or insuring a new car, we can help. One of the most overlooked systems on the car is the PCV system, Positive Crankcase Ventilation. And most people make some serious mistakes because they think the PCV. Ideal for data center managers and system integrators in need of a solution that provides maximum flexibility within colocation, data center and enterprise deployments. Some people claim this provides about 9. Two oil passages meet at. In factory configuration, a bushing is pressed. You can. use the 6. Beyond that, we smoothed out the intake runner and removed the high edge where the valve guide sticks up into the valve port. Oddo's book)! This helps reduce cross- talk between the middle cylinders - they share a common exhaust port, and the exhaust valves have some overlap relative to each other. Oddo's book for an illustration of using the tool, pulling the valve guide down so you can insert the retainer). The Isky Max- 1 cam (P/N 8. Isky Flathead Specification sheet 1 and sheet 2) recommended . See the information below about motor oils! Try to minimize the number of revolutions on the camshaft during the adjustment. You'll need a thin 7/1. The first time you set the intake manifold, don't use any sealant. Oddo's book. This is because the factory distributor has a vacuum brake, not a vacuum advance, and it must be connected to a venturi vacuum source. Newer carbs do not have venturi vacuum ports. Therefore, if you are using something other than the factory carb, you'll have to replace the distributor, which is probably a good idea in any case. MSD and Mallory both make electronic and breaker point distributors. Oddo's book for the intake torque sequence. Using an electric fuel pump allowed us to relocate the breather/fill tube to the back of the engine (see photo). One word of caution, according to Mike Davidson (see References), these can cause interference if using electronic ignition. Initially, we rebuilt the generator and converted it to 1. V to keep the original looks. However, even with a new 1. V regulator, we could not get enough out of the generator to run an electric cooling fan at idle, so we decided to . It comes with a new bracket which I had to do a little grinding on, and its a 1/2. The width is perfect, and the height leaves about 3. This is less than ideal, but a lot better than the unshrouded 1. Its made by Cooling Components, Inc., P/N CCI- 4. Parts List for the Speedway P/N). The fan pulls 2. 70. CFM, which should be adaquate. With the fan & shroud installed, there is still about 3. It is recommended that a 3. A relay be used to run the fan, we ended up using used an adjustable Hayden fan controller which includes A/C control (#HDA- 3. Summit). Fire In The Hole! Alas, we mounted the engine on a test stand (another thanks to Dad here, who made it) wired it up, and filled the engine with oil and coolant (read the information below about Motor Oils below for some important information). Click here for a Quick. Time movie of the first engine run (without mufflers, LOUD!) . Click here for a movie of the engine running on the test stand, tuned somewhat better, with mufflers, at ~1. RPM . The balancing was great. Parts selection was great. The spark plug wire looms look great and do a great job of keeping the plug wires untangled. The compression was quite consistent from cylinder- to- cylinder. The low jug was within 3. Important Information about Motor Oils. It is extremely important that you read the Motor Oil Warning sheet that comes with the Isky camshaft. The ban was phased in starting in the 1. Zinc and Phosphates (i. ZDDP) were removed from . But this is bad news for all us hot rodders who are using flat tappet engines, especially with solid lifters! ZDDP is need for both the break- in and for the long term (Zinc in particular gets in the mircoscopic pours of the cam lobes and reduces wear on contact surfaces). The work around for this problem boils down to a few options. Use a Racing or Specialty motor oil. See the Motor Oil Warning for recommendations. Referred to as . You can get it at your local NAPA store. Try this link if you are interested. According to the datasheets, it has 0. Zinc, which is even higher than the Joe Gibbs HR oils (0. You can use an oil additive that replaces the ZDDP. Lucas Engine Break- In Oil Additive TB Plus Zinc, P/N 1. Diesel oils used to be an option, I used Shell Rotella T 1. W4. 0 with Triple Protection for a while, but beware even Diesel oils are now under government mandates regarding Zinc levels. Both have high Zinc levels. However, after a few more hours of running, the noise seemed to reappear, but on the other side of the engine. The inital decision to keep the generator caused us to forgo electronic ignition. I wish we would have planned on buying the Powermaster alternator from the beginning, and got the ignition system we really desired, but for now we're sticking with the Mallory dual point distributor. Unexpected things we learned. Modern motor oils don't have the same additives they used to (due to EPA restrictions), and this will wipe out a flat tappet cam, especially if its got solid lifters! See the information on Motor Oils, above! Don't use the cherry colored cam lube that comes in the little screw- top containers.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
August 2017
Categories |